Gratin of Potatoes and Fennel
In the heart of French cuisine, there exists a profound respect for humble vegetables, transformed through the alchemy of slow cooking. The Gratin de Pommes de Terre et Fenouil is one such quiet triumph—a dish that brings together the sweet licorice notes of fennel with the grounding comfort of potatoes, all enrobed in a luxurious garlic cream, then baked to golden perfection.
Baba au Rhum
On the weekend between my birthday and my mother’s, I felt a sudden pull toward this recipe, a longing for the flavors of my childhood. As I opened the book, I discovered something unexpected—her handwritten notes in the margins. Familiar loops and flourishes, small adjustments, little reminders, all in her hand. With each step, I could almost hear her voice guiding me, her notes offering a sense of familiarity. The scent of butter and rum filled the kitchen, wrapping me in a memory that felt both distant and close at once.
LuLu’s Roast Chicken with Ginger
This recipe is based on Lulu’s, with a few small modifications to suit my own tastes. As the chicken roasted, the oven cast its gentle heat through the house, and the scent of ginger and herbs filled every corner. The final step—tossing macaroni in the chicken’s roasting juices—reinforced the homeyness of the dish in the way only simple farmhouse cooking can.
Lamb Cotelettes
Inspired, I decided to cook lamb côtelettes with olives and pastis, alongside Monsieur Chabrier’s eggplant and tomatoes, all perfectly paired with a velvety red Bandol. One bite brought the warmth and sunshine of Provence, melting away the chill of a snowy winter’s day.
Truffles, Tension, and Tartlets: A Culinary Caper in Snowy Vermont
The tartlets are a tribute to my culinary icon, Joël Robuchon. In 1996, I had the incredible fortune of staging in his Paris kitchen during truffle season—a dream come true for any young chef. Among his many masterpieces, his truffle tart stood out, a dish so simple yet so luxurious it felt like tasting pure elegance. Inspired by his genius, I created my own version: a crisp filo base, a touch of smoked bacon jam, and a delicate slice of black truffle—a small homage to the culinary legend who shaped my love for perfection on the plate.
The Ultimate Guide to Baked Camembert
Baked Camembert is incredibly versatile. It’s elegant enough for special occasions yet comforting for casual gatherings. It’s a conversation starter, bringing everyone together to dip, spread, and savor. Plus, it’s quick to make, giving you more time to enjoy your event. It also makes a perfect lunch or dinner when served alongside a big green salad, turning this indulgent dish into a balanced and satisfying meal.
Truffade: A Taste of Rustic French Comfort
Truffade is a hearty and iconic dish that embodies the culinary soul of France's Auvergne region. Born as a staple for shepherds and farmers, this rustic creation highlights the simplicity and resourcefulness of countryside cooking. Made with tender potatoes, creamy cheese, smoky bacon, and a touch of garlic, Truffade is traditionally prepared in a cast-iron pan and often served alongside a crisp green salad, grilled sausages, or slices of locally cured ham.
A French Classic: Fricassée of Chicken with Morels and Vin Jaune
Once a year, I find myself drawn to making this dish—a harmonious symphony of wild mushrooms, chicken, and cream. What makes it truly special is the way the nutty, sherry-like notes of Vin Jaune dance with the earthy richness of morels, creating a flavor combination that feels both indulgent and deeply satisfying.
Pommes Darphin: The Crispy Potato Masterpiece
Versatile and elegant, Pommes Darphin pairs beautifully as a side to a hearty roast or shines on its own when served with smoked ham and a fresh green salad. Its irresistibly crunchy exterior and velvety interior make it a celebration of simplicity at its finest.
Rediscovering Pot-au-Feu
Pot-au-feu, a quintessential French classic, has long been celebrated as the heart and soul of French cuisine. Translating to “pot on the fire,” this slow-cooked masterpiece embodies simplicity and tradition, dating back generations to humble working-class kitchens. Pot-au-feu transforms affordable cuts of beef into a meal of rich broth, tender meat, and hearty vegetables—a timeless culinary treasure.
Mastering Garbure
Garbure is more than a simple stew; it’s a hearty, soul-warming meal that embodies the essence of French country cooking. Originating in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this rustic classic is renowned for its rich, layered flavors and its adaptability to seasonal ingredients.
Belgian Endive and Ham Gratin
Sometimes you rediscover an old childhood favorite completely by accident. Recently, I was sitting in my office, surrounded by hundreds of old French cookbooks, thinking about what I was going to cook when one book beckoned me over. It had been a while since I last read Anne Willan's comprehensive cookbook 'The Country Cooking of France'. As I flipped through the pages, it felt like I was looking through a cherished family album of childhood dishes. I stopped on one, her version of the French family classic, endive and ham gratin.
Rabbit Schnitzel
I'm quite fond of rabbit, though I don't cook it very often anymore. Preparing rabbit can be tricky as it tends to dry out with traditional cooking methods and can turn to mush when cooked in a circulator. A simple and virtually fail-safe method I enjoy is making Rabbit Schnitzel. This technique allows the rabbit to cook in just five minutes, resulting in a delightful crunch that nicely complements the tender meat. You can serve the schnitzel plain with a squeeze of lemon or pair it with your favorite sauce.
Daube of Pork Cheeks
This Provençal pork stew is ideal for chilly days when you crave a comforting meal. Traditionally, daubes were prepared in the fading embers of a wood fire using a distinctively shaped pot known as a daubière. The extended cooking time and the pot’s rounded form facilitate a convection process, where heat rising from the bottom transforms into steam, meets the cooler top, and condenses back down onto the simmering meat. This cycle helps the collagen in the braising meats convert to gelatin, giving the final dish a smooth and silky texture.
Quick and Easy Apple Tart
Try making this very simple tarte that allows the flavors of apples to shine through.
Gnocchi with Tocco di Carne
When my son Beau was 2, he constantly asked me to make what he called "circle pasta," his term for gnocchi. His passion for Italian cuisine, particularly those with a red hue, began during his "red" phase. This period was triggered by a visit from my friend Marco Cameli, who I consider to be one of the finest pasta chefs I know. Marco came to the US from Italy to try out for the sous chef position at my restaurant and spent a week living with my family. As we prepared dinner each night, I begged Marco to make pasta. Each night we delightedly ate dishes like bucatini all’Amatriciana, spaghetti with simple tomato sauces, and what might be the best Carbonara I've ever tasted.
Cocotte of Farmhouse Chicken
Here's a straightforward recipe for a succulent farmhouse chicken that's sure to please the whole family. Cooking chicken in a cocotte is a traditional French method. In Southern France, it's quite popular to include numerous garlic cloves, which turn creamy and mild after prolonged, slow cooking. Serve the chicken directly from its cooking pot at the table. When you break open the pastry seal in front of your guests, the enticing aromas of garlic and thyme are released, creating an unforgettable sensory experience for everyone.
Cassoul-YAY
A lot of people asked what made my cassoulet so good and if I could share the recipe. Sylvie Bigar, the goddess of cassoulet and author of ‘Cassoulet Confessions’ had advised me to go to Hostellerie Etienne to taste the best version. I won’t repeat my account of eating it but suffice it to say that after one plate, my son became an expert and scolded me that my version was not as good. I spent the next year studying different recipes and techniques before settling upon what I call Cassoulet v2. My recipe is a hybrid of several recipes including Sylvie Bigar’s rendition of Eric Garcia’s recipe, Hostellerie Etienne’s recipe, and my personal experiences.
Jarret of Pork au Chablis
Lightly smoked pork jarret poached in Chablis is a traditional farmhouse dish hailing from the Burgundy region of France, known for its rich culinary heritage.
Curried Mussels Fritters with Potato Puree
Mussel Fritters served on a bed of Potato Puree with a Curry Sauce is a delightful and innovative recipe that captures the essence of Brittany’s regional flavors. This dish, a personal reinterpretation of a Brittany classic, brings the region’s maritime freshness to the forefront.