A French Classic: Fricassée of Chicken with Morels and Vin Jaune
Once a year, I find myself drawn to making this dish—a harmonious symphony of wild mushrooms, chicken, and cream. What makes it truly special is the way the nutty, sherry-like notes of Vin Jaune dance with the earthy richness of morels, creating a flavor combination that feels both indulgent and deeply satisfying.
Pro Tip: For the perfect finish, pair a slice of Comté cheese with a glass of Vin Jaune as a simple yet unforgettable dessert.
Vin Jaune
Vin Jaune is a distinctive wine from France’s Jura region, crafted exclusively from the Savagnin grape. Its unique character comes from an extraordinary aging process: after initial fermentation in stainless steel or oak barrels, the wine is transferred to oak casks and aged for at least six years and three months without being topped up. During this time, a natural yeast layer (voile) forms on the wine's surface, shielding it from oxidation while imparting its signature nutty, spicy, and savory notes. The result is a golden-hued wine with exceptional complexity, akin to fino sherry but with its own unmistakable identity. Vin Jaune is bottled in the clavelin, a special 620 ml bottle that reflects the wine’s concentration during aging. The volume lost to evaporation, poetically known as "the angel's share," accounts for the difference from a standard 750 ml bottle.
Fricassée of Chicken with Morels and Vin Jaune
Fricassée of Chicken with Morels and Vin Jaune
A luxurious dish combining the earthy richness of morel mushrooms with the nutty complexity of Vin Jaune, creating a creamy sauce that elevates the chicken.
Prep Time 30 minutes, Cook Time 45 minutes, Servings 4
For the Chicken:
1 whole chicken, cut into 12 pieces: 2 wings (each cut into 2 sections), 2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, and 2 breasts (each cut into 2 sections)
1 cup all-purpose flour, mixed with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, herbes de Provence, and Espelette pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon oil
For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, finely minced
1 bouquet of fresh herbs, such as savory and thyme
1 cup chicken stock
½ cup Vin Jaune (or dry sherry or white wine if unavailable)
1 cup morel soaking liquid
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste
To Serve:
Fresh parsley, chopped
Instructions
1. Prepare the Morels: If using dried morels, soak them in warm water for 20–30 minutes until rehydrated. Drain, strain the soaking liquid through a fine sieve, and reserve. Trim and clean the fresh or rehydrated morels.
2. For the Chicken: Mix the flour with the salt, both peppers, and herbes de Provence. Spread the seasoned flour on a sheet pan and coat each piece of chicken thoroughly.
3. Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken pieces, skin-side down, until golden and crispy (about 10 minutes). Flip and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove the chicken and set aside.
4. Wipe out the pan and return it to the stove.
5. For the Sauce: In the same skillet, reduce the heat to medium and add the butter. Once melted and frothy, stir in the shallots and sauté for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.
6. Add the chicken stock and all the chicken pieces except the breasts. Cover and simmer over low heat, reducing the stock by half, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved morel soaking liquid and reduce again.
7. Add the chicken breasts and Vin Jaune to the skillet. Reduce the liquid slightly before adding the cream and morels.
8. Simmer until all the chicken is fully cooked, about 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
9. To Serve: Arrange the chicken on a serving dish or individual plates. Spoon the creamy morel sauce over the top. Garnish with fresh parsley.
Notes:
You can enhance the dish by adding garlic and/or leeks, but I prefer to keep the flavors simpler to let the two stars—the morels and Vin Jaune—shine. For added depth, try grating a touch of nutmeg into the sauce and finish with a small squeeze of lemon to balance the richness and brighten the flavors.
