Mastering Garbure
Warm up with this classic Gascony recipe filled with tender vegetables, savory meats, and rich tradition — a true taste of French country comfort.
It has been said that a good garbure should be so full of ingredients that your ladle stands straight up in it.
Garbure is more than a simple stew; it’s a hearty, soul-warming meal that embodies the essence of French country cooking. Originating in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this rustic classic is renowned for its rich, layered flavors and its adaptability to seasonal ingredients. Traditionally, it includes root vegetables, cabbage, and potatoes; in spring, fresh fava beans might be added, while roasted chestnuts are a cozy fall addition. This versatile dish celebrates local ingredients, transforming each pot of garbure into a reflection of the land, the season, and the generations of people who have lovingly crafted it.
In Occitanian tradition, the last spoonfuls of garbure are enjoyed through an ancient ritual called *faire chabrot*. This custom involves pouring red wine into the nearly empty bowl, creating a rich blend of soup and wine. This savory mix is then sipped in hearty gulps, savoring every last drop. Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral links *cabroù*, the regional term for this practice, to the Latin *capreolus*, meaning “to drink like a goat.”
With the rich traditions and customs of garbure in mind, it’s time to bring this hearty, flavorful dish to life in your own kitchen. Gather your winter vegetables, a selection of savory meats, and a good red wine for the final touch of *faire chabrot* with those last, lingering spoonfuls. Here’s a step-by-step recipe to recreate this French country classic at home.
Garbure
Prep Time 20 minutes, Cook Time 1.5 to 2 hours, Servings 8
Ingredients
for the beans:
1 cup of white beans (see notes)
1 onion studded with 3 cloves
1 thin carrot
1 stalk of celery
4 ounce piece of salt pork
1 bay leaf
1 bunch of thyme
to make the Garbure:
3 tablespoons duck, goose, or pork fat
2 carrots, diced
2 leeks, diced and washed well
2 turnips, peeled and diced
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, diced
2 quarts water
1 ham hock
1 sprig of fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
3 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced
1 head Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded coarsely
4 legs of duck confit, cut in half
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
Instructions
For the beans, rinse and soak the beans overnight in a large bowl of water. Drain and set aside. Place the soaked beans in a pot and cover with fresh water (about 2 inches above the beans). Add the onion, carrot, celery, salt pork, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring the water to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook gently, partially covered. Simmer until the beans are tender, which can take 1-1.5 hours for white beans, depending on the type and freshness of the beans. Once tender, drain the beans.
To make the Garbure, In a large Dutch oven or stockpot over low heat, melt the fat. Add the carrots, leeks, turnips, onion, and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the water, beans, hock, thyme, bay leaf, and bouquet garni. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for an hour to soften the vegetables and develop the flavors, adding more water if needed.
Add the potatoes and cabbage, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Traditionally, duck or goose confit is added at this stage. For a modern twist, I like to crisp the duck skin in a pan and add it to each bowl when serving for extra texture.
Remove the hock, chop the meat, and return it to the soup. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then sprinkle with parsley and serve.
For the best flavor, let the stew cool, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Reheat and enjoy the next day.
Notes
Beans: I typically use fresh beans from my garden, which don't require any soaking or pre-cooking due to their freshness. In contrast, dried beans from the grocery store are often older and therefore need soaking and pre-cooking to soften properly. In Gascony, they use a local white bean similar to what you would find in cassoulet. In America I like to use Great Northerns, Cannellini, or Navy Beans.
Additions: Other root vegetables that work wonderfully in garbure include parsnips, which bring an earthy sweetness; kohlrabi, offering a mild sweetness with complementary flavors; rutabaga, adding a nutty heartiness; and celery root, which lends a creamy, subtle celery flavor. For added richness, you could also incorporate pork ribs or sausages. Some people serve toasted French bread sprinkled with grated cheese. Enjoy!
Francois de Melogue is a photographer, reformed chef, cookbook author, and bon vivant. He lives in Saint Albans, Vermont, with his wife Lisa and 13-year-old son Beaumont. Francois’s photography is available for sale at his online gallery. Click here for Video recipes.
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