Lamb Cotelettes
As a fierce February snowstorm raged outside my Vermont home, I curled up on the couch and opened Geraldene Holt’s French Country Kitchen. Instantly, I was transported from the swirling snowdrifts to the sun-drenched lavender fields of Provence. Her evocative storytelling and mouthwatering recipes made me forget the howling wind, replacing it with visions of bustling markets and rustic kitchens filled with the rich aroma of a slow-simmering daube. Inspired, I decided to cook lamb côtelettes with olives and pastis, alongside Monsieur Chabrier’s eggplant and tomatoes, all perfectly paired with a velvety red Bandol. One bite brought the warmth and sunshine of Provence, melting away the chill of a snowy winter’s day.
Marinating lamb cotelettes, photograph by Francois
Lamb Cotelettes with Olives and Pastis
Prep Time 10 minutes, Cook Time 10 minutes, Servings 4
Marinating the Lamb Chops
4 tablespoons of fruity olive oil
8 lamb chops, see notes
1 teaspoon crack black pepper
1 teaspoon Espelette
4 fennel fronds, chopped
To Finish the Dish:
24 Niçoise olives
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon pastis
Instructions
Marinate the Lamb: Place the lamb chops in a dish, drizzle with olive oil, and toss to coat evenly. Sprinkle with cracked black pepper, Espelette, and chopped fennel fronds. Cover and let marinate for 8 hours, allowing the flavors to meld.
Cook the Lamb: Heat a pan over medium-high heat and add a drizzle of oil. Stand the lamb chops fat-side down and cook until the fat is golden and crispy. Sear each side until browned, about 1 minute per side.
Finish the Dish: Remove the lamb chops from the pan and set aside. Pour off excess fat, then add the olives, garlic, and pastis to the pan, stirring to deglaze. Return the lamb chops to the pan and cook for about 5 more minutes, or until done to your preference. Serve immediately.
Notes:
I used a Frenched lamb rack cut it into eight small chops, but lamb T-bones or shoulder chops work just as well. If using the latter, simply sear each side until browned instead of standing them fat-side down.
Bonus recipe:
Monsieur Chabrier's Eggplant and Tomatoes
In French Country Kitchen, Geraldene Holt shares her 80-year-old neighbor’s simple recipe for eggplant and tomatoes. I was drawn to its simplicity and made a few subtle adjustments to make it my own.
Eggplant and Tomato Stacks by Francois
Prep Time 10 minutes, Cook Time 10 minutes, Servings 4
2 Japanese eggplants, thickly sliced (about 24 slices)
1 cup seasoned flour (flour mixed with Espelette, salt, and black pepper)
1 cup olive oil, for frying
6 small tomatoes, cut into 18 slices (cooked confit style or fresh if in season)
2 tablespoons of pistou, see notes
Instructions
Soak the eggplant slices in cold water for an hour.
Heat the olive oil in a pan until smoking hot. Remove the eggplant from the water, pat dry, and dredge in seasoned flour.
Fry the eggplant slices until golden brown on each side, about 5 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels.
Brush 18 eggplant slices with pistou.
Assemble by stacking: one pistou-brushed eggplant slice, one tomato slice, another pistou-brushed eggplant slice, another tomato slice, and finish with a final eggplant slice.
Serve at room temperature.
Notes
I know this can be confusing for some. In the Provençal dialect, pistou comes from the word pistare, meaning "to pound" or "to crush." It refers to a sauce made by grinding fresh basil, garlic, cheese, and olive oil—similar to Italian pesto but traditionally without pine nuts. Pistou is most famously used in soupe au pistou, a classic Provençal vegetable soup that is elevated with a generous spoonful of this aromatic sauce just before serving.
