It was a snowy afternoon in Vermont, and I was engrossed in work when the doorbell rang unexpectedly. Through the frosted glass of the front door, I glimpsed an unfamiliar figure—a large man with short, graying hair and a slightly stern expression. As I cautiously opened the door, I noticed a mail truck idling in the driveway.

"Are you Mr. Demelogue?" he inquired.

My heart raced as I recalled the package I was expecting: a shipment of black truffles from France. While importing truffles into the United States is generally permissible, it involves navigating a labyrinth of regulations and potential import duties. I couldn't shake the apprehension that perhaps this delivery wasn't routine. Was this imposing figure merely a mailman, or could he be a law enforcement officer investigating an illicit shipment? The line between gourmet indulgence and legal infraction suddenly seemed perilously thin.

Summoning a steady voice, I responded, "Yes, that's me." As he handed over the package, a wave of excitement and unease washed over me—I was now an unwitting player in the clandestine drama of the French truffle trade, with its earthy treasures and whispers of intrigue, delivered right to my doorstep.

Truffles from Heaven, or Les Pastras

Meet the Pepin’s: the dynamic Franco-American duo who, in 2003, swapped the hustle and bustle of Chicago's finance and public relations sectors for the sun-soaked vineyards of Provence. At Les Pastras, their 11-hectare organic farm, they cultivate grapes, olives, and the elusive black winter truffles (Tuber melanosporum).

For those yearning to deepen their connection to Provence (without the hassle of uprooting their lives), the Pepin’s offer a hassle-free truffle tree adoption program. This delightful initiative allows enthusiasts to adopt a truffle oak and receive an annual shipment of 100 grams of fresh black truffles each January or February.

You might remember Johann from a couple of stories I shared on my Medium site a few years back. In one, I described an unforgettable truffle hunt at a secret location with Johann and his partner, Jean-Marc. The other captured the close of truffle season, culminating in a clandestine truffle deal tucked away in a hidden corner of Provence.

A Truffle Hunt In Provence: A Cautionary Tale of Thieves, Horny Pigs, and Expensive Tubers

Postcards from France: Black Diamonds: Celebrating the End of Truffle Season with a Back Alley Deal

Upon receiving my truffles from my adopted truffle oak, I was inspired to create several dishes that would honor their rich, earthy flavor. The result was truffled scrambled eggs, roast Dover sole with a Champagne-truffle sauce, and a batch of delicate tartlets, each featuring a crisp filo base topped with a dollop of smoked bacon jam and a thin slice of the prized black truffle.

The tartlets are largely inspired by my culinary icon, Joël Robuchon. In 1996, I was fortunate to have a short stage in his Paris kitchen during the height of truffle season. One of my favorite dishes was his truffle tart, a masterpiece that showcased the luxurious flavor of truffles.

Note: If you need the absolute freshest and best truffles (legally) shipped directly to your door, contact my friend Johann of Les Pastras. He offers incredible truffle hunts on his small farm in Cadenet and you can adopt a tree at Les Pastras and receive a yearly shipment of truffles from your own tree!

Black Truffle Tartlets with Smoked Bacon Jam

Prep Time 10 minutes, Cook Time 30 minutes, Servings 2 to 4

Smoked Bacon Jam

• 4 slices of double smoked bacon, sliced thin

• 1 large onion, sliced paper thin

• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme

• 1/2 cup red wine

• 2 teaspoons of honey

To Finish the Tartlettes

• 2 sheets of filo dough

• 50 grams of black truffles

1. To make the smoked bacon jam, heat a large skillet over medium heat and add the bacon. Cook until it turns golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove the bacon from the skillet and set it aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pan.

2. Reheat the bacon fat until hot, then add the sliced onions. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10–15 minutes. If the onions begin to brown too quickly, lower the heat to medium-low to ensure they caramelize slowly and evenly.

3. When the onions are soft and golden, stir in the honey and fresh thyme, ensuring the onions are evenly coated. Increase the heat to medium and pour in the red wine. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan, then let the wine simmer for about 5 minutes, or until it has mostly evaporated and been absorbed by the onions. Add the cooked bacon back to the skillet and stir to combine, cooking for another couple of minutes.

4. Taste the mixture and season with salt or black pepper as needed. The finished onions should be rich, fragrant, slightly sticky, and infused with the savory flavor of the bacon.

5. Place a sheet of filo dough on a clean surface. Lightly brush the top with melted butter. Layer a second sheet of filo on top, pressing gently to adhere.

6. Using a 1-inch cookie cutter, cut out 30 circles from the layered filo sheets. Arrange the circles in a single layer on a Silpat-lined baking sheet, then cover them with a second Silpat to keep the circles flat while baking.

7. Bake in a preheated oven at 375°F (190°C) for about 10 minutes, or until the filo circles are golden brown and crisp. Remove from the oven and let cool before using.

8. To assemble, peel the truffles, reserving the peels for another use. Using a sharp knife or mandolin, slice the truffles as thinly as possible. Cut the slices into perfect circles with a 1-inch cookie cutter.

9. Place a filo circle on a plate and top it with about ½ teaspoon of smoked bacon jam. Gently place a truffle slice on top. Garnish with a tiny sprig of thyme or a pinch of flaky sea salt for a finishing touch.

10. Serve immediately with a glass of champagne.

Francois de Melogue is a Photographer, reformed chef, cookbook author, and bon vivant. He lives in Saint Albans, Vermont, with his wife Lisa and 14-year-old son Beau. Francois’s photography is available for sale at his online gallery. Click here for Video recipes.

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