We soon explored many other dips made from eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies, figs, and even pistounade - a dip made from basil, green olives, and almonds. The Summer 'Ades', as we are calling them, have become a permanent fixture when we returned to the States especially when served with a still hot, crispy socca and a glass of chilled Provencal rosé.

Coq au Vin is my personal soul food. I started making the current round of coq au vin 4 or 5 days ago. Coq au vin is a dish better suited to preparing at a grandmotherly pace. Like all great stews, it is better done slowly over a longer period of time to allow the full flavors to develop and mature. Coq au Vin is best prepared at home where it retains the patina of its origins rather than in a restaurant setting where it dies a soulless death.