Simple French Cooking

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Duckherd’s Pie, or Duck Hachis Parmentier

One of the best gifts I received from being a chef for almost 3 decades was the ability to look into a refrigerator and quickly transform its contents into a new meal. Every evening my wife Lisa marvels at this chef superpower. She always says that this is what I should teach people. So bear with my first attempts to do so.

Over the past weekend, I made duck a l’orange for my family. Ducks were available at an incredibly low price at my local grocery so I bought a few. After we devoured our duck about was left. I wrapped it up and put it into the refrigerator. I know, I know - how can anyone have leftover duck a l'orange? Is that even possible?

A few days later I started thinking back to a meal we had in Beaune, France at a small bistro. The main course was a duck hachis Parmentier made with duck confit. It got me thinking - what could be better than transforming my duck leftovers into a new savory winter bake.

One of the easiest methods of transforming old roasts and sautees into something new is to make a Shepherd’s Pie or Hachis Parmentier as it is known in France. An English friend got mad at me for not being authentic and using lamb in my Shepherd's Pie so I changed the name to duck herder's pie to keep the peace.

This shepherd’s pie is great whatever meat you end up using.

Duckherd’s Pie (Hachis Parmentier de Canard)

duck filling

  • 1 tablespoon duck fat or unsalted butter

  • 1 onion, chopped fine

  • 2 ribs of celery, chopped fine

  • 2 carrots, chopped fine

  • 2 teaspoons sea salt

  • 2 teaspoons herbes de Provence

  • 1 sprig thyme

  • 1 pound of roast duck (or beef, pork, lamb, chicken, or even fish), chopped fine

  • 1 cup duck sauce or stock

duchess potatoes

  • 2 pounds of Yukon Gold potatoes

  • 1 teaspoon sea salt

  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter

  • 2 large eggs

  • 2 large egg yolks

  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

  • 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

To make the duck filling, heat the fat in a large skillet over medium-high heat until smoking, about 2 minutes. Add the onion, celery, and carrots and let cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with salt, herbes de Provence, and the thyme. Add the duck and cook for a few minutes until warmed. If you are using raw meat cook until the meat is fully cooked, about 5 minutes. Add the sauce and let simmer for 3 minutes. Adjust seasoning to your personal tastes.

To make duchess potatoes, peel potatoes and slice thickly. Cook them, covered in simmering salted water until soft but not mushy. Drain well, return to the pan to dry out over low heat.

Put potatoes through a food mill; add half the butter by mixing in with a wooden spoon until the mixture is very smooth. Whisk together eggs and yolks, then beat in gradually to potato mixture. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

For the shepherd’s pie, pipe small mounds of duchess potatoes with a star tip over the entire surface of the shepherd’s pie. Brush with remaining butter melted and bake in a hot oven for 30 minutes, or until lightly brown on top and bubbly.