Chicken in a Cream Sauce
Quick, before summer gets here I wanted to share an old-school French recipe for cooking chicken that I adore. It is no secret to my avid followers that I love the classics, especially as I become one myself. This chicken dish is based on a recipe from the late great Paulette Blanc, mother to another famous chef you may have heard about, Georges Blanc.
Happy and successful cooking doesn’t rely only on know-how; it comes from the heart, makes great demands on the palate and needs enthusiasm and a deep love of food to bring it to life. – Georges Blanc
The Legacy of Madame Blanc: A Pioneer Among the Mères Lyonnaises
Madame Blanc holds a revered place in culinary history as one of the famous Mères Lyonnaises, or "Mothers of Lyon." This title refers to an extraordinary lineage of female chefs dating back to the mid-1700s. These women not only elevated Lyon to its status as the gastronomic capital of France but also shaped the foundation of classic French cooking as we know it today.
The Blanc family’s journey into the restaurant world began in 1872 when Georges Blanc’s great-grandfather, Jean Louis Blanc, started serving simple soups to merchants who stopped by after the nearby markets closed. The business flourished, and in 1902, Jean Louis's son Adolphe and his wife Elisa took over. Elisa, later celebrated as “La Mère Blanc,” became one of the most renowned Mères Lyonnaises, crafting dishes that highlighted the region's exceptional produce and flavors.
Elisa cooked from the heart, relying on her instincts and a natural talent for flavor. Her menu featured fresh, uncomplicated dishes like veal chops with sorrel and Bresse chickens with morels, reflecting the bounty of Burgundy. Her dedication earned her the first Michelin star in 1929 and a second by 1931.
Elisa’s influence reached legendary heights when the iconic food writer Curnonsky declared her “the greatest cook in the world.” Her success solidified the Blanc family legacy, which continued to thrive under her eldest son Jean and his wife Paulette. Together, they upheld the tradition of simple yet exquisite French cuisine until 1965, when their son Georges returned to learn the family craft under Paulette’s careful guidance.
A Classic Recipe Inspired by Mère Blanc
Honor the Blanc family’s tradition by trying this simple and forgiving chicken dish this weekend. Don’t forget to share your creation with us by tagging #SimpleFrenchCooking on social media. Bonus points if you pair it with these amazing potato pancakes, just like Mère Paulette served them—with no frills, just perfection.
By celebrating the legacy of Mère Blanc and the Mères Lyonnaises, you’re embracing the rich history of Lyon’s culinary traditions and savoring the timeless magic of French cooking.
Chicken in a Cream Sauce
Paulette Blanc simple French classic, Chicken simmered in a cream sauce.
4 oz. unsalted butter
4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces (watch this video to learn how to easily break down a chicken)
1 onion quartered
10 button mushrooms trimmed and quartered
2 cloves garlic smashed
1 bouquet garni (see notes)
1 cup white wine
4 cups cream or creme fraiche
1/2 lemon juiced
sea salt
black pepper
nutmeg
Heat butter in a large Dutch oven over high heat until bubbly and very hot. Working in batches if necessary, add the chicken, skin side
down, and cook until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
Add onions, mushrooms, garlic, and bouquet garni and continue cooking until everything is soft, approximately 10 minutes. Deglaze with white wine, scraping the bottom of the pan to get all the little tasty bits. Add cream and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove chicken and keep warm.
Strain sauce, adjust seasonings with lemon juice and a few grates of nutmeg, bring back to a boil, then pour over chicken and enjoy.
Notes: Bouquet Garnis is a collection of herbs, usually containing bay leaf and thyme, that are tied together and used to flavor stews, stocks, and other dishes.
Francois de Melogue is a photographer, reformed chef, cookbook author, and bon vivant. He lives in Saint Albans, Vermont, with his wife Lisa and 13-year-old son Beaumont. Francois’s photography is available for sale at his online gallery. Click here for Video recipes.
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