A Simple or Complicated Recipe

There is a perception in cooking that some recipes are more complicated to prepare than others. Usually, recipes with more steps or ingredients are deemed complicated, while those calling for a mere quintet of ingredients are simple. 

Less is more. — Ludwig Mies van der Rohe

Yet, this dichotomy oversimplifies the art of cooking, for sometimes it is the minimalist recipe that requires much more finesse, each element demanding to be perfectly balanced, while the so-called ‘complex’ dishes offer a generous margin for personal interpretation and error. 

Today I invite you to explore a classic of Provence, Chapon de Mer Farci, or stuffed scorpionfish. A dish that anyone with an adventurist mindset can prepare. I am inviting even the most novice of cooks to don an apron and wield a wooden spoon with utmost confidence.

Chapon de Mer, Rascasse, Scorpionfish

The term “chapon de mer” might confuse some because “chapon” generally describes a capon, a castrated rooster renowned for its tender, succulent flesh. However, in Provence, scorpionfish is often called “chapon” due to its large, meaty texture reminiscent of a capon.

Scorpionfish, or “rascasse” as it is generally called, is a key ingredient in bouillabaisse. It is a bottom-dwelling fish with a distinctive, often spiky appearance and a robust flavor. The scorpionfish has a firm texture and a fine, white flesh that stands up well to various cooking methods, including grilling, baking, and stewing. 

Sourcing

I am blessed to live near the Poissoniere La Mar in Montreal and readily find a wide range of fish to choose from. I can already hear my chorus of detractors shout ‘Where the hell am I going to find a Chapon de Mer — this dish is impossible, I quit.’ Oh, don’t give up so easily. Try substituting any other whole fish that weighs roughly 3 or 4 pounds. They will protest further, ‘My fish store doesn’t sell whole fish!’ Then use 2 fish fillets. I made the same dish with loud de mer (branzino). Where they see roadblocks, I see opportunities for exploration.

The Recipe

Brace yourself with a glass of rose from Provence or a stiff pastis because boning the fish is the hardest part. My general advice is to break up longer recipes into a series of preparations and do them over the course of a day or two.

Chapon de Mer Farci

If you are lucky and found a scorpionfish, have your fishmonger scale and remove the sharp spikes along the top of the fish. They are very mildly poisonous and hurt when you stick yourself with them. While stuffing fish like this is very traditional in Provence, I used Alex Mackay’s version for inspiration. Before seeing his recipe, I never thought to add shrimp to the filling. 

PREP: 1 hour | COOK: 45 minutes with 10 minutes resting| MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

• 1 large scorpionfish (or red snapper, branzino, or small salmon)

• 8 large shrimp, peeled and deveined, keep the shells for the sauce and chop the meat

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 1 large sweet onion, peeled and chopped finely

• 4 cloves of garlic, peeled and mashed

• 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced finely

• 1 large pinch of saffron

• 2 tablespoons of tomato paste

• 4 ounces white wine

• 1 bunch of Swiss chard, well washed

• 1 cup of tomato confit

• 2 ounces of Panko

• 1/4 cup of chopped fresh herbs, I used basil, thyme, and savory

• 1 egg yolk

• salt and pepper to taste

• 1 cup of rouille, see notes

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

2. Remove the main bone in the fish by cutting along each side of the fin from the base of the head to where the tail begins to narrow, just short of the end. Use a pair of kitchen shears or strong scissors and cut the bone. Save the bone for your sauce. Remove all the fish guts and throw them away. Put the fish back in the fridge and relax. It is all downhill from here.

3. To make the filling and the sauce, in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm the oil until hot. Add the onions, garlic, and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove half of the vegetables and place into another Dutch oven. One Dutch oven will be the filling and the other the sauce.

4. For the sauce, add the fishbone, shrimp shells, and saffron to one-half of the vegetables and cook for 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste, white wine, and enough water to cover the bones, bring to a simmer, then cook for 20 minutes. Strain through a fine-meshed strainer and reserve.

5. For the filling, chop the Swiss chard finely add to the other pot of vegetables, and cook over medium heat until wilted and soft, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped shrimp, tomato confit. panko, and herbs. Mix well, then stir in the egg yolk off the heat.

6. Season the fish with salt and pepper then stuff the fillings inside. Tie securely with kitchen twine or cotton string and lay on a rimmed cookie sheet lined with a silpat. Drizzle with olive oil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes.

7. To serve, bring the sauce to a boil, remove from heat, then stir in half the rouille with a whisk. Remove the strings from the fish with a pair of scissors or a sharp knife and serve on a cutting board tableside. Use a serrated knife and cut the fish into thick slices. Serve with sauce and extra rouille.

Notes:

How to make rouille, in a food processor, combine 2 egg yolks, 2 peeled cloves of garlic, 2 tablespoons of Sriracha hot sauce, 1 teaspoon of vinegar, 2 teaspoons of paprika, and a big pinch of saffron and purée until smooth, about 30 seconds. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the 1 cup of olive oil through the hole in the lid or the feed tube until the mixture is thick like mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place in a serving bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve. This is a quick and easy way to make a rouille. Someday I will post a more labor intensive way that is a bit more authentic.