Strawberry Vacherin

Vacherins are among my most favorite desserts both to eat and to make. They are quite simple: three layers of meringue usually sandwiching a vanilla ice cream and a sorbet. In this version, I made a tarragon frozen yogurt and strawberry sorbet. Sometimes simple and homey just tastes better.This variation of vacherin is the love child of mine and Sarah Estle, my Pastry Chef in Connecticut. This was the first dessert we collaborated on when I took over the kitchens at Copper Beech Inn. I was searching for something that screamed Summer but was classic enough for our French brasserie menu.I forewarn you, this is a recipe that involves a certain amount of skill to make correctly. It certainly falls more comfortably in the professional category than household, but don't let that deter you.It remains one of my favorite desserts when strawberries are their sweetest.

Strawberry Vacherin with frozen Tarragon Yogurt

Vacherins are among my most favorite desserts both to eat and to make. They are quite simple: three layers of meringue usually sandwiching a vanilla ice cream and a sorbet. In this version, I made a tarragon frozen yogurt and strawberry sorbet. Sometimes simple and homey just tastes better.

Strawberry Sorbet

• 2 cups sugar
• 2 cups water
• 1 quart ripe strawberries
• 1 teaspoon lemon (juice)
• pinch sea salt

Tarragon scented Frozen Yogurt

• 4 sprigs tarragon (chopped)
• 1 cup milk (warmed)
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 8 egg yolks
• 2 cups whole milk yogurt
• 1 pinch salt

Meringues

• 8 egg whites (room temperature)
• 1 -1/2 c. powdered sugar

Strawberry Tarragon Soup

• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup water
• 1 quart strawberries
• 1 sprig tarragon (chopped)
• 1 pinch sea salt
• lemon juice

Finishing the dessert

• four beautiful strawberries
• four tarragon mini sprigs
• powdered sugar

Strawberry Sorbet

1. Simple syrup is just sugar and water brought to a boil then cooled.

2. Mix simple syrup, strawberries, lemon juice and salt. Puree in a blender on low speed. If you puree on high speed you will add more air into the puree and the color will be more pink. Freeze according to the instructions of your ice cream machine’s manufacturer.

Tarragon scented Frozen Yogurt

1. Steep tarragon in warm milk and cream for an hour. Discard all the tarragon and bring milk back to a boil.

2. Whisk sugar and egg yolks together till frothy and lemon colored.

3. Temper yolks and milk together by whisking in half of the hot milk to the egg yolks, then pouring it all back into the pot of milk. Heat gently over low heat while stirring constantly with a wood spoon until sauce thickens to what is called "sauce consistency".

   Sauce consistency is one of those terms you learn early in your cooking career. Put a wooden spoon into the frozen yogurt base and pull it out. Run your finger through the base on the back. If it holds the tracks of your finger than it is sauce consistency.

4. Whisk in yogurt and salt, then freeze according to the instructions of your ice cream machine’s manufacturer.

Meringues

1. Making meringues can be very intimidating for novice cooks. Steady yourself with a glass of wine, we can do this together. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

2. Beat egg whites at high speed on your stand mixer until medium peaks form. Here is a great article from 'Fine Cooking' that explains the difference between soft peaks, medium peaks, and stiff peaks.

   Add sugar, then continue whisking at high speed until the meringue is stiff and shiny, about 30 seconds.

3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. You have to decide whether you want to make the dessert homier and serve like a cake (see picture above) or you want to get fancy and do individual servings.

   For Individual vacherin:

   Now here is the part where you will have to channel your inner MacGyver. In the restaurant world I would normally use metal tubes about two inches in diameter and about three inches high. Another method, though less friendly with the health department, is to use PVC pipe cut into suitable sections. Go to your local hardware store and play stupid. Usually the staff will take pity on you and perfectly cut them into the correct sizes. Chefs are a resourceful bunch; food has to be served despite any obstacle in our path. In a sense we are the postmen of the culinary world. Snow or shine we have to deliver the food. So be like a Chef, get creative with whatever you have in your house.

   Trace the interior diameter of the tube you selected on a piece of parchment 12 times. You do not want to eat the ink or pencil you traced with so flip the parchment over so you can still see the circles but the ink is on the other side. Put a small plain tip in a pastry bag and pipe concentric circles of meringue.

   For an 8 inch vacherin:

   Trace the interior diameter of an 8 inch spring form pan on a piece of parchment 3 times. You do not want to eat the ink or pencil you traced with so flip the parchment over so you can still see the circles but the ink is on the other side. Put a small plain tip in a pastry bag and pipe concentric circles of meringue.

   

4. Bake at 200 degrees for two hours or until thoroughly dried out and crispy. Ideally you want to end up with meringues with no color. Sometimes I have dried them out all night long with the oven set as low as it will go.

5. Please note: Meringues have a notoriously short shelf life and lose their crunch in humid climates or weather quickly. Here’s another tip the Health Department won’t like: Collect the little bags of drying agents that come with electronics and some spices. Find a Tupperware container and tape a few packets on the inside of the lid, out of contact with food. This will help to keep meringues dry and crispy for a few days.

Strawberry Tarragon Soup

1. Make a simple syrup with the sugar and water. Put cooled syrup in a blender with the strawberries and tarragon and puree on low speed. Season with a pinch of salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Keep cold till ready to use.

Finishing the dessert

1. The goal is to create a layered tower of three meringue disks sandwiched with one layer of tarragon frozen yogurt and another of the strawberry sorbet.

   For Individual vacherin:

   Fill pvc tubes with one meringue, tarragon frozen yogurt, meringue, strawberry sorbet and finally a last meringue. Let freeze for a few hours or even overnight. Push vacherin out of tubes and arrange in the center of a chilled soup bowl. Dust top with powdered sugar and garnish with a strawberry and a small tarragon sprig. Pour strawberry soup around and serve immediately.

   For an 8 inch vacherin:

   Layer one meringue disk, tarragon frozen yogurt, meringue, strawberry sorbet and finally a last meringue. Let freeze for a few hours or even overnight. Dust top with powdered sugar then unmold vacherin at table and cut a slice (same as you would a birthday cake). Put slice in a shallow bowl and pour soup around. Garnish with a strawberry and a small tarragon sprig.