Simple French Cooking

View Original

Fall Squash Gnocchi

 Fall squash waiting to be made into gnocchiLately, I have become fascinated with the different Fall squashes that have started appearing at the farmers market. I grabbed seven or eight without thinking about what I would make with them, I just knew I needed them in my life. The forecast for the weekend called for cool, rainy Pacific Northwest weather. So I decided to make a comforting Southern French beef short rib stew known as daube. Daube is one of those harbinger dishes that signals the changing of summer to fall. I couldn't think of anything better than a bowl of Fall squash gnocchi and a rustic bottle of Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol rouge to accompany our lunch.   If you have read anything I have ever written then you are already familiar with my affinity for daubes. Here are some of my favorite variations: Gui Gedda's lamb daube, daube of beef, and a beautiful pork cheek daube I shared on my favorite Provencal website, Perfectly Provence. Someday soon I will post an easy octopus daube that I love making when I crave ocean flavors.Gnocchi are highly versatile and can accompany just about anything you cook, and best of all are delicious enough to eat on their own. In this recipe, I made a nutty brown butter and sauteed the squash gnocchi with sage leaves and finished with a touch of chicken stock and parmesan cheese. Hashtag us at #PistouAndPastis and show us your bowl of gnocchi! 

Fall Squash Gnocchi

Gnocchi are feather light dumplings usually made solely from potatoes but can be made from many different starchy vegetables. 

roasting the squash

  • 1 potimarron or butternut squash
  • 2 russet potatoes (scrubbed)
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • 1 sprig rosemary

making the gnocchi

  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1/2 cup grated parmesan
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • 1/2 tsp crack black pepper
  • 1 tsp fresh grated nutmeg
  • 2 cups flour

finishing the dish

  • 8 tbsp grass fed butter
  • 8 sage leaves
  • 1/2 cup rich chicken stock
  • 1/2 lemon (juice and zest)
  • 1/2 cup grated parmesan

roasting the squash

  1. Cut squash in half, remove seeds, then toss with potatoes, olive oil, and salt. Put into a large pan with the rosemary sprig, cover, and roast at 400 degrees for one hour, or until tender and can be easily pierced with a paring knife. Be careful of escaping steam when checking to see if your squash and potatoes are cooked.

making the gnocchi

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rapid bowl. Get a bowl filled with ice cubes and water ready.

  2. Remove squash and potato and place on your counter. Use a large tablespoon to scrape the meat out of the squash. Peel potatoes with a paring knife. 

  3. Put both squash and potatoes into a ricer. Mix with egg yolks, parmesan, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. If it needs a bit of seasoning do so to your personal tastes. Mix in flour and feel the dough, it should be solid enough to roll in strands but not too bouncy. It is hard to explain but at the end of the day, the goal is as little flour as possible.

  4. Cut dough into eight equal pieces. Start working with one piece at a time. Roll dough out on floured surface to about 1/2-inch-thick rope. Cut each 'rope' into 15 pieces. Grab each piece and roll along the back of a fork dipped in flour, making ridges on 1 side. As soon as each 'rope' is done, drop into rapidly boiling water and cook until the gnocchi floats back to the top, about two minutes.

  5. Using a spiral wire skimmer or slotted spoon, remove gnocchi from boiling water and drop into ice water. The gnocchi will go from soft to hard as they cool. Repeat with all the 'ropes'. Toss cooked gnocchi in oil and refrigerate till you are ready to eat.

finishing the dish

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drop gnocchi in for two minutes. 

  2. While the gnocchi is reheating, brown butter in a heavy large saute pan over high till golden brown. Drop in sage leaves, chicken stock, lemon juice, and zest., 

  3. Add gnocchi and Parmesan, adjust seasoning, toss well and serve.

A lot of recipes call for boiling potatoes. Moisture is the enemy of gnocchi. Roast everything in the oven to keep your riced starches dryer. Dryer equates to less flour. Less flour makes a lighter gnocchi.