Simple French Cooking

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Daube of Lamb 'Gui Gedda'

Gui Gedda had become a mythical character in my unrelenting search for pure, unadulterated Provence cooking. I heard his name mentioned in several publications, always spoken with absolute reverence, but could never really find out a lot of details about him. Chefs referred to him as both the Pope and the Marcel Pagnol of Provencal cuisine. Finding Gui Gedda’s book ‘Cooking School Provence’ was a major find; it felt a bit like finding the holy grail.

“Cooking School Provence" is the curriculum for an imaginary cooking school based in the South of France with Gui as your personal teacher. Interspersed between a litany of classic recipes is sage advice on everything from picking the perfect vegetable, how to choose the best fish at the market to which herb combinations work best with certain meats and fish. His goal is to teach us to shop, cook and eat like a local - an inspiration close to my heart.

Gui Gedda's cuisine is very simple and approachable, anyone with a basic understanding of cooking can reproduce it without sacrificing taste and authenticity. Here is my adaptation of Gui Gedda's lamb daube, a brothy, slow-cooked lamb stew best made the day before and reheated gently before serving. This classic Provencal dish will soon become a favorite of yours.

Lamb Stew photographed by Francois de Melogue


Provençal Lamb Daube ‘Gui Gedda’

Here is my adaptation of Gui Gedda's lamb daube; a brothy, slow-cooked lamb stew best made the day before and reheated gently before serving. This classic Provencal dish will soon become a favorite of yours.

Herbal Rosé Infusion

  • 1 bunch rosemary

  • 1 bunch thyme

  • 4 bay leaves

  • 10 juniper berries

  • 10 black peppercorns

  • 1 - 4 inch segment dried orange peel (see video below)

  • 1 bottle rosé

Lamb Stew

  • ¼ cup olive oil

  • 10 thin carrots (peeled and sliced)

  • 1 sweet onion (peeled and sliced)

  • 2 ribs celery (diced)

  • 1 leek (cleaned and diced)

  • 10 cloves garlic (sliced ‘good fellas’ thin)

  • 3 pounds boneless lamb shoulder (cut into 1-inch dices)

  • 2 teaspoons piment d’ville

  • 2 teaspoons herbes de Provence

  • sea salt and black pepper to taste

  • 2 tablespoons lavender honey

  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Herbal Rosé Infusion

  1. Bring 8 quarts of water to a boil with rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, juniper berries, black peppercorns, and dried orange peel.

  2. Simmer for 15 minutes then add a bottle of Rosé. Continue simmering till the infusion has reduced by fifty percent. Strain out herbs, and save liquid for making the stew.

Lamb Stew

  1. Sauté carrots, sweet onion, celery, leeks, and garlic in olive oil. Cook five to ten minutes, or until the vegetables are soft.

  2. While vegetables are cooking, season lamb shoulder with piment d’ville, herbes de Provence, sea salt, pepper, and lavender honey.

  3. Sauté in oil over high heat until browned, about seven minutes.

  4. Add to vegetables, cover with Herbal Rosé Infusion, and season with nutmeg. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook covered till tender, about 2 - 3 hours.

  5. Serve the stew in large warmed bowls with mashed potatoes, roast potatoes, rice, green pasta, or nothing at all.

Dried oranges are a common element used in Provençal cooking. They are so easily made it almost embarrasses me to think I used to buy them. Simply peel an orange and hang the peel to dry in a breezy, cool and dry place for five days, or until fully dry. Lends an intense, concentrated orange flavor to everything it is cooked with.